It's the Simple Things in Life

I’ve often marvelled at the idea of seeing my own city through my tourist eyes or practicing the playfulness and curiosity of a child.  Nigeria gives me that opportunity.  I’ve come to realise that when life is stripped back to basics, it really is the simple things that keep you smiling.

Our weekly market outing is always a highlight.  The sounds, smells, chaos and colours tickle your senses and serve as a constant reminder that it’s not an activity for the faint-hearted.  There’s something amusing about the eternal fascination that my whiteness attracts with the constant cries of “baturi” and “oyibo” (white person in Hausa and Igbo).  Bargaining is an essential part of life and a talent you quickly master.  Like everything else in Nigeria, laughter is the secret weapon in the negotiating game.  A snide giggle and a few local words is all that it takes to make sure the white-price is slashed and the mood switched to one of laughter, adoration and secret handshakes.

Food often fuels my simple pleasures and never more so than when I’m spoilt with things that have now become life’s luxuries.  This weekend has been a total taste bud treat with pizza, wine and chocolate.  Never again will I take such devilish things for granted!

Sometimes joy comes from living vicariously through friends whose volunteer experience is a little more grass roots than my privileged existence.  Try to imagine a work environment where your boss is known as “mumzy” and you demonstrate respect to your superiors with the ludicrous titles of “auntie” or “uncle.”

In keeping with the theme of aunties, innocence, playfulness, curiosity and joy… today we welcomed the gorgeous little Oskar Jack Tremethick to the world… congratulations Sam and Anna!

What in the Word?

It's words that have kept me entertained in the last 24 hours.

What exactly would you like with your food?  Food and fish, food and chicken, or perhaps food and beef?  If you're hungry, can I suggest a side serve of extra food?

The menu itself had me in stitches but the real clincher came when we were told that since it was Sunday and everyone was at church there was "no food, only meat."

I can only assume that "food" is something like pounded yam which is a Nigerian favourite but since there wasn't any food, it remains one of life's great mysteries for now.

On the flip side however, I'm delighted to report that Nigeria is leading the way in the fight against malaria as this news headline proves:

"Some experts at the weekend blamed the colossal loss of under-five children and pregnant women to malaria in Nigeria on lack of proper policy direction on the disease.  They called for commitment by all Nigerians to kill at least one mosquito a day in order to reverse the trend."

So obvious really.  I'm going to do my bit for the country and up the anti to five a day!

Nigerian Wedding

Nigerian weddings are a vibrant celebration of colour, song and dance.  The bride selects a favourite material and guests have the option of tailoring matching outfits, complete with traditional head wraps.  They're such a time of celebration that it's quite acceptable to attend even if you've never met the bride and groom.  Sadly for me, I didn't have time to meet with the tailor but I'm thrilled to have been part of the 500 strong crowd.

This House is Not for Sale or Rent

Maybe it's just me but I'm not particularly fussed that "this house is not for sale or rent." 
A roof has always been on my list of property must-haves!

To explain this situation a little further though, I quote from the book I'm currently reading (A Culture of Corruption; Daniel Jordan Smith).  To understand the passage you first need to know that the "primary mode of illegitimate corruption in Nigeria is 419.  Named after the number in the Nigerian penal code that deals with a specific form of fraud."

"Ask any Nigerian the purpose of the message and they will quickly tell you that it is to prevent 419.  Apparently, one popular method of 419 is to assume the identity of a real estate agent or simply a property owner trying to sell one's house.  In Nigeria's cities and towns, where the real estate market is tight, buyers can be induced to make down payments to secure a later purchase, and in some cases entire transactions have been completed before the buyer discovered that the deal was a scam.  By labeling houses as "not for sale" property owners are trying to prevent themselves and their buildings from becoming embroiled in 419 cases - and in Nigeria there is always the added fear that even if your house has been sold in a scam, you might still lose it if the buyer has more money or better political connections."

I told you we might all learn a little something from my blog!

Leaping Lizards

Before leaving Australia I'd wondered what sorts of creepy crawly things would torment me in Abuja.  Maybe it was my childhood memories of tropical cockroaches in Papua New Guinea or my dad's recent tales of rats in East Timor, but I was very much hoping that Nigerian nature and I could find a way to happily cohabitate.

So far so good...

I haven't yet seen a cockroach, although Stephanie reports a possible suspect last seen scurrying to hide in our kitchen.  And we haven't yet had to challenge my dad's rat trapping record, with our only rodent visitor being a mouse presuming he might join us for dinner one night.

Meanwhile, I've developed a small infatuation with our local lizards.  There's so many of them and they've got quite a personality.  Not to mention that their body language suggests they're absolutely petrified of me, which is something I find most appealing in a relationship with a reptile. 

As they sense me on approach during my walks, they bob their heads up and down trying to gauge the level of danger.  It's somewhat reminiscent of the "be alert, not alarmed" terrorism campaign.  One or two steps closer though and their adrenaline rush kicks into overdrive as they race off to safety.

One paid us a visit in a meeting this week and got himself in quite a state when he realised he was trapped under a boardroom table with human feet every which way he looked!

There's another who pays a regular visit to my office window, bobs his head, stares at me inquisitively and then inevitably freaks himself out and does a mercy dash.  The fact that we share this intimate moment daily and that I haven't yet made any effort to attack him seems of absolutely no consequence to his confidence.  Maybe he's shy and needs time to get to know me!

Nigeria is a Health Farm

If you know me well, please make sure you're seated before reading on...

I moved into my house five days ago and I've cooked all but one meal since then (and that was only because we were spoilt with a team dinner at Wakkis on Friday)!  Not only have I cooked, but my diet is overflowing with freshness and health.  Chloe and Stephanie are amazing cooks so I'm learning something new everyday.  As if I'd ever have known to put my fresh white beans in the freezer overnight so I could kill all the bugs?  Let's be honest - I think we can safely assume that I've never even purchased white beans before!  Then today I filled them with water, let the bugs float to the top and presto - clean beans.

Starting today I've also added in a regular exercise program.  I'm committed to doing 5km around our compound track everyday with 10km on Sunday for good measure.  Who knows - maybe I'll even work my way up to a jog? And throw in a few laps of the pool to cool down.

Combine that lifestyle with the fact that I drink roughly two litres of water each day because of the heat and can rarely afford evil treats like alcohol, chocolate or cheese and the Nigerian Health Farm experience is a clear winner!

Not to mention that there's a regular and reliable source of vitamin D from the sun which also ensures a healthy glow and the sensible working hours mean it's easy to get a solid eight hours sleep each night.

Do I love Nigeria?  Absolutely yes!

Expat Living Minus the Salary

Having mentally prepared myself for the most basic of living standards I find myself blessed with expat-style accommodation beyond my wildest dreams.  I share a double story, three bedroom house with two delightful girls (Chloe and Stephanie) in the most exclusive part of Abuja.

Everyday I pinch myself just to make sure it's real!

Living with a foot inside both the expat and volunteering worlds gives rise to it's own unique challenges however.  For example, how do you explain at the market that you can't possibly afford the price of washing powder when there's a clear assumption that you must have a machine?  Or how do you get another expat to comprehend that a glass of wine absolutely blows your NGN7000 (AUD45) weekly budget?

Life is tough (not)!