Amazing Race

This time next month I'm thrilled to be boarding a flight to Tanzania to notch up another trekking achievement.  I'm taking on Mount Kilimanjaro - my highest point so far (5895m) and also the highest free-standing mountain in the world!  Better still, I'll be joined by my Amazing Race buddy (Kez) so there's bound to be much fun and laughter once the hard yards are behind us.

We've opted for the Lemosho Route which is the longest, most scenic and most remote route on Kilimanjaro.  The trek starts out in Lemosho Glades which are rich in buffalo, elephant and other game so that's a new twist on our trekking history.  As is the fact that we'll be braving the great outdoors and camping on our overnight stops.

I'm a firm believer that all trekking accomplishments should be celebrated with food, drink and laziness so from Kilimanjaro we're headed to Zanzibar for a week of play and pamper at Fumba Beach Lodge and Swahili House.  I can't wait!

Speaking of Amazing Race feats, Chloe (who lived with me in Nigeria for the first three months) is taking on the New York City marathon in November 2011.  She's dedicating each kilometer to the mission of improving access to health care in Tanzania by running in support of the Touch Foundation Team (www.touchfoundation.org).  This is a mammoth effort and one that I'm only too happy to support from the sidelines.  So, if you've been wondering how to gather some tax deductions and you're keen to support a good cause, make a donation via www.crowdrise.com/chloemanchester.  You can also check out Chloe's training progress at www.united-manchester.tumblr.com/NYCMARATHON2011.

   

The Great Food Adventure

Food options in Nigeria on a volunteer budget are a little limited.  My diet revolves around pasta, rice, tomatoes, onions, potatoes, tuna, corn, eggs and fruit.  Tough going for a girl who's used to restaurant food from around the world!

Things changed for the better when I met Laura though.  She's a delightful Cameroonian lady who barbeques tilapia fish in the most wonderful mix of spices and serves it with chips, salad, mayonnaise and pepe sauce.

A weekly visit to tantalise my taste buds with tilapia means some very strict budgeting but it's absolutely worth it.  Mind you, Laura's moved from an outdoor barbeque to a fully fledged indoor kitchen and restaurant in the couple of months of my obsession so it seems its smiles all round.

Determined to find some food variety, it's been a month jam packed with interesting food adventures.

There was the West African equivalent of a late night kebab, introduced by the Hausa people and known as Suya.  Beef or chicken is marinated in a powder of finely ground roasted peanuts, cayenne pepper, paprika, garlic, ginger and onion and barbequed on skewers.  And to think people warned me that I wouldn't find spicy food in Nigeria... ridiculous!

And Kilichi, which is the Nigerian version of beef jerky smothered in pepe.  By now you'll be noticing a trend - pretty much all food in Nigeria is based around their beloved pepe.  I'm grateful in many ways because it makes beef jerky addictive (which I never thought I'd say), satisfies my desire for chilli and is fantastic for hiding cuts of meat that you're definitely better off not seeing!

This weekend saw me take the food adventure to a whole new level with snails.  Now I'm not talking about your dainty little escargot served in garlic butter but rather giant ugly things.

You guessed it... served in the miracle that is pepe.

They weren't nearly as bad as you might imagine.  In fact they really had no taste at all or if they did, it was overpowered by the pepe.  That said, when one snail is worth more than a third of the price of a tilapia, you can guarantee my loyalty stays with Laura!

The Little School Under the Mango Tree

Life as a volunteer in Nigeria teaches gratitude.  It makes you realise how much we sometimes take for granted and it makes you stop and appreciate the little things that happen every day.

Abdul Tashiu is a volunteer that I had the pleasure of meeting when I was in Kafanchan.  He's a twenty six year old Fulani boy whose volunteering story really stands out from the crowd.  From a very young age he was committed to education.  He traveled two hours each day for primary school and was away from home for twelve hours a day to manage the commute for secondary school.  He was the first in his community to graduate and his parents worked very hard to save enough money for him to go to college to study teaching.

Sadly his dreams were shattered when it turned out that the college he enrolled in was a scam; all the money was lost and there was nowhere for him to study.  It also created a rift with his parents who weren't sure if he'd squandered his tuition fees.

Abdul isn't one to give up however.  With the support of the Fantsuam Foundation he achieved his Diploma in Information Technology.  He also got involved with the Gaiya National Volunteer Program which equipped him with the skills to mobilize and facilitate change.

Abdul embarked on two projects to support his community; a clinic and a local school.  While rallying to raise funds for the buildings, "The Little School Under the Mango Tree" sprang to life.  Determined to encourage learning within his community, three teaching staff and sixty five children attended outdoor classes under the shade of a tree.  The number of children has now increased to eighty.

 

 

Funding for the projects to date has primarily come from lumber sales and donations.  The start of the wet season this year damaged much of the recent progress made on the school.  As always, Abdul and the children's resolve for education was a force to be reckoned with.  In his own words "Problem can either make you or break you.  The hammer that breaks glass can shape steel.  It's up to you whether to be glass or steel.  Have a will power of steel and a vision of glass."

 

 

Recently, Abdul's enthusiasm and tenacity saw him win two awards as part of the International Year of the Volunteer (an Award of Excellence and Volunteer of the Year).  Now he's shooting for the stars and hoping to be part of President Obama's Forum for Young African Leaders.  Go for gold Abdul... I adore your spirit!

As I write this tonight, it breaks my heart that Abdul and his family have been caught up in Nigeria's election violence.  Four of his brothers have been killed, their house burnt down and many of his family are still missing.  Who knows what's become of "The Little School Under the Mango Tree."

Before sharing this tragic news with me today, Abdul's first thought was to ask whether I was safe.

We should all take a lesson in gratitude, courage and determination.  Stay strong Abdul!

I Promise Fresh Air

"I assure you of fresh air" is one of the popular campaign slogans for President Goodluck Jonathan that has caused me some amusement in the lead up to today's first electoral polls.  Nigeria has been big on the uptake of the saying "a breath of fresh air" but it's certainly been somewhat twisted as though filtered by a little game of Chinese whispers. There's nothing more gratifying than receiving the compliment "you're such fresh breath to me!"

So in keeping with the popular theme, the "Coalition for Fresh Air in Nigeria" has erected many a billboard reminding us that Goodluck "is the messiah sent to bring fresh air to all Nigerians."  At face value, this is one mighty electoral promise!  Check out the state of our air in these photos.

Putting literal translations aside, there still seems to be some confusion though.  Since President Goodluck Jonathan has been in power since the May-2010 death of the former elected leader Umaru Yar'Adua, it's hard to see how a vote for him is a vote for new politics.

But as I woke up this morning on this important day in Nigerian democratic history, the clouds had lifted and the message was clear.  Non-essential businesses are closed and travel is banned for the next three voting Saturdays.  It's pitched as a means to control security and ensure a peaceful process but it got me wondering whether anyones thought about the green implications.  Maybe the People's Democratic Party really can promise "fresh air" in shutting down business and keeping the countries 158 million people off the roads?

It's the Simple Things in Life

I’ve often marvelled at the idea of seeing my own city through my tourist eyes or practicing the playfulness and curiosity of a child.  Nigeria gives me that opportunity.  I’ve come to realise that when life is stripped back to basics, it really is the simple things that keep you smiling.

Our weekly market outing is always a highlight.  The sounds, smells, chaos and colours tickle your senses and serve as a constant reminder that it’s not an activity for the faint-hearted.  There’s something amusing about the eternal fascination that my whiteness attracts with the constant cries of “baturi” and “oyibo” (white person in Hausa and Igbo).  Bargaining is an essential part of life and a talent you quickly master.  Like everything else in Nigeria, laughter is the secret weapon in the negotiating game.  A snide giggle and a few local words is all that it takes to make sure the white-price is slashed and the mood switched to one of laughter, adoration and secret handshakes.

Food often fuels my simple pleasures and never more so than when I’m spoilt with things that have now become life’s luxuries.  This weekend has been a total taste bud treat with pizza, wine and chocolate.  Never again will I take such devilish things for granted!

Sometimes joy comes from living vicariously through friends whose volunteer experience is a little more grass roots than my privileged existence.  Try to imagine a work environment where your boss is known as “mumzy” and you demonstrate respect to your superiors with the ludicrous titles of “auntie” or “uncle.”

In keeping with the theme of aunties, innocence, playfulness, curiosity and joy… today we welcomed the gorgeous little Oskar Jack Tremethick to the world… congratulations Sam and Anna!

What in the Word?

It's words that have kept me entertained in the last 24 hours.

What exactly would you like with your food?  Food and fish, food and chicken, or perhaps food and beef?  If you're hungry, can I suggest a side serve of extra food?

The menu itself had me in stitches but the real clincher came when we were told that since it was Sunday and everyone was at church there was "no food, only meat."

I can only assume that "food" is something like pounded yam which is a Nigerian favourite but since there wasn't any food, it remains one of life's great mysteries for now.

On the flip side however, I'm delighted to report that Nigeria is leading the way in the fight against malaria as this news headline proves:

"Some experts at the weekend blamed the colossal loss of under-five children and pregnant women to malaria in Nigeria on lack of proper policy direction on the disease.  They called for commitment by all Nigerians to kill at least one mosquito a day in order to reverse the trend."

So obvious really.  I'm going to do my bit for the country and up the anti to five a day!

Nigerian Wedding

Nigerian weddings are a vibrant celebration of colour, song and dance.  The bride selects a favourite material and guests have the option of tailoring matching outfits, complete with traditional head wraps.  They're such a time of celebration that it's quite acceptable to attend even if you've never met the bride and groom.  Sadly for me, I didn't have time to meet with the tailor but I'm thrilled to have been part of the 500 strong crowd.